hilkat

The gentlemen who brought us beds-as-dresses chic have returned with a characteristically surreal exhibition featuring their greatest hits displayed in miniature.
A history of the work of Viktor and Rolf is on show now at the Barbican throughout the summer, displayed on dolls merely two feet high - who also happen to have the faces of the models who originally wore the pieces.
It’s unsurprising that the duo chose to exhibit in this way - their unique take on fashion includes the 1998-99 offering Atomic Bomb and that of 2000-01, Bells, both haute couture collections which for the former featured necklines styled in the manner of mushroom clouds, and for the latter, dresses embroidered with hundreds of brass bells. These can be seen in their reduced scale format, alongside the multi-collared suit adorned by muse Tilda Swinton at the 2003 Baftas.

The opening night, hosted by Elle magazine, was awash with celebrities from all walks of life, from Alexa Chung who cited them as “fucking amazing” to Mischa Barton who adores their eccentricity. Fellow designer Roland Mouret said they were “fantastic”. I have to say I’m in strong agreement with the famous faces, I’ve always been a fan of Viktor and Rolf (not so much the price tags though!) and have watched eagerly for their latest collections. What I really love about their work is that you are guaranteed entertainment with your fashion fix - nothing is straightforward. The pair don’t just strap a model into a pair of trousers and send her down the catwalk - they design things with meaning, garments that require a bit of effort to work out what exactly they are trying to say. They use fashion as a form of communication, which is evident in the Autumn/Winter 2008-9 collection - jackets and tops embellished with the word “No” in various formats and a t-shirt with “Dream On” splashed across the chest, made to show how dissatisfied the duo are with the speed at which fashion moves. One might think they are “gimmicky” but push aside the wacky ideas and you will discover a world of beautiful tailoring and exquisite clothing - and who doesn’t like a bit of entertainment with their fashion?

The House of Viktor & Rolf runs at the Barbican until 21st September 2008.

This entry was posted on Thursday, June 19th, 2008 at 9:54 am and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Responses are currently closed, but you can trackback from your own site.